From ancient Roman springtime fertility rites to
Christian celebrations of resurrection and renewal, the seasonal celebrations
of Easter have always been a special time in Italy. During Lent, Italians
look forward to the sweet treats that they have supposed to have abstained from
during the 40 days of lent and the fast is broken on Easter day with a
traditional family meal of roast lamb.
Well before the arrival of the actual event there are
Easter displays in bakeries, bars and shops and they centre on
brightly wrapped and elaborately decorated gift filled Easter eggs ranging
from modest to absolutely enormous. Apart from these widely recognisable
symbols of Easter there are other treats to be had. Depending on where you
come from these Italian Easter specialities could be the Umbrian “Torta di
Formaggio” a truly delicious cheesy
bread, a rosemary scented Florentine Easter bun called Pan di
Ramerino or the traditional Colomba di Pasqua.
The latter is a sweet, eggy, yeasted bread similar to
the Christmas panettone without the raisins and with the addition of candied
orange peel and a sugary almond sprinkled crust. This light and fragrant cake
is supposedly shaped like a colomba or dove; one of the most recognisable Easter
symbols of Easter. Though the cake was popularised
in the early 1900s by the Milanese confectionery company "Motta", the tradition is said to go back to the 12th
century when two doves appeared over the city of Milan after the defeat of the Emperor
Fredrick Barbarossa. The cake apparently commemorates the event and the victory
that took place. The second, slightly less savoury version tells that the cake
derives from Pavia, a city near Milan. During
the time when Lombard king Alboin conquered the city it is said that he took
precious jewels and a number of girls to do with as he pleased. Most of the
unlucky maidens were understandably hysterical but one plucky girl, when called
to his room, took along a delicious sweet bread in the shape of a dove, made
with eggs, candied fruit, yeast, sugar and flour. Apparently Alboin was pleased with her
gift and set her free.
Whatever the truth is the cake is well worth a try and
makes a change from chocolate!
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